From The Heart

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Cheap corsets vs the real steel!

Once up on a time, the corset was seen as a normal foundation garment to a western woman’s daily wear.  Nowadays we prefer the freedom to be more active and not restricted by such garments. However there is still a demand for corsets. Sometimes when I tell people the price of a tailor-made corset they usually reply “oh gosh that is a lot!” and then go on to tell me about a corset they saw in a shop that cost only 30€. My first question is usually “Was it a real corset?” and the customer usually shrugs. I explain that a lot of skill and art goes into creating a real corset. A cheap corset looks nice on the manaquin but if you were to really try and pull that corset tight a few times, problems will occur. For example, bones poking out or eylets falling off. Most times the material used is very cheap and are probably manufactured in China. This is how shops can afford to offer a corset for such a cheap price, but after you try and pull it tight on two occassions or more, I’m sure the fabric will start to fray and the bones will start showing through.

With a good quality corset this problem should not occur and you can wear your corset for many years because the quality and strength of the fabric will be simular to the Victorian methods of corsetry, using Cortil as the stong fabric to stand the stress of tight lacing. The Victorians used whale bone in their corsets, but today this is illegal and instead steel boning is used, such as spiral boning which made its way into corset usage from around 1910-1930s because it was more flexible than the rigid steel boning.

Steel Spiral Bone for Corsets

In a good quality corset there will be a strong steel busk, spiral bones, straight steel bones for the back where you lace and strong eyelets. Furthermore, a higher price means you get a corset that is tailored to your exact measurments rather than a cheaper one bought straight off the rail that might not cover the tummy properly or that gives that unflattering ‘too much bust spilling over the top of your corset’ effect!

I believe we are entering a new dawn, where quality wins over quantity and being cheap is not at all the main priority. All corsets produced at Miss Moss Corsets are made from high quality fabrics imported from England, silks from Italy and steel from Germany. If you are intersted in a custom-made corset please get in touch and i’ll send you our sizing chart. Corsets can be sent to anywhere in the world!

Happy New Year! I think this one will be a good one!

So I have a lot planned for the new year!! A lot of exciting ideas and new projects lined up!

First off, next week I will be selling my designs at Japan Festival Berlin. The event is being held at Urania on Saturday 15th – Sunday 16th January 2011. 10am-6pm both days! I am really looking forward to it because it will be the first big event I will be selling my designs at! So I am pretty busy at the moment, working on stuff for that!

In February I have been asked to make a pin up style Valentines day collection for an exhibition called SemiDomesticated where it will be an opportunity for me to show my designs and hopefully get some buyers interested. Each piece has to be made with something vintage or an up-cycled fabric, which is really interesting. I went shopping for fabrics in England a few weeks back. I was looking for some power mesh to start making a girdle, and the shop assistant pulled out some very vintage power mesh that she said was from around the 1950s which was fabulous! Exactly what I was looking for!

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Recreating the past

Years ago when my Corset obsession was beginning to really take off I went to the Victoria and Albert museum in London and I saw a beautiful fuchsia pink Corset with a black lace trim and a pink ribbon finishing. On a more recent visit to the V&A museum I unfortunately did not see the corset as the exhibitions change frequently but I re-looked it up in a book I bought from the Museum and I found it again. I decided to recreate this corset but with my own modern flair!

Above is the image of the Corset that is part of the fascinating historical costume collection at the V&A. Its dated from about 1885-1895. It is French and the shape is classic for the end of the 19th century. The steel busk which fasten the corset at the centre front came into popular use around the 1850′s making it much easier for the wearer to get herself into her own corset without as much assistance of others, but help was still needed.

Before the 1880s white cotton or linen were used for “respectable women”. The corsets of this period didn’t have much decoration to them as they were used as a tool to mould the female body to the desired ideal at the time. Bolder colours were used by prostitutes and women of “looser morals” However after the 1880s, thanks to the industrial revolution the corset trade really began to change and develop and more materials were starting to become available and a larger range of fabrics such as coloured silks, satin or silk broche so the colour of the Corset above was typical towards the end of the century with lots of decoration and elegant laces.

With this elegant historical design as my inspiration and after researching fabrics I found some beautifully bright fuchsia pink silk from a my local little fabric shop in Italy, I had some black lace sent from England and I started working on my own design. However the lining I made from black and white polka dot fabric, just to add a more modern feel to the design! I organised a photo shoot with the photographer Steve Braun and the fabulous model Lydia. It was Lydia’s first time at modelling but she was a complete natural and the photos turned out really nice! Although Lydia does not have a super tiny waist of the women from the Victorian era, I am still happy with the results of a modern day corset for a modern woman. We do not need to lace up super tight like the corsets of the past. The women we see in the old images who have super tiny waists are showing off their social status and their husbands wealth and role in society. The smaller the woman’s waist showed that she simply could not do much and this helped the image men saw women as the “weaker sex”. It was not up until the end of the first world war in 1918 that women were really showing they had a voice, they had proven they could take over the men’s jobs in the factories to help with the war effort and to be seen as equals.

I am glad that today we have a right to choose what we wear and if we want to wear a corset or not. I think, even now, it is still seen as a sexual symbol and I think it will always stay that way but it is our choice to show ourselves in whatever way we please, tight laced or not and not just to satisfy the taste of a possible future husband!

Little treasures found in Venice!



I started living in Venice, Italy in September 2009. I was doing a costume design internship with a company called Atelier Pietro Longhi in the heart of the city. It was a fabulous experience and I feel I learnt more from my 4 month internship there than I did in 3 years at university!! And living in Venice was a magical experience if not a little boring at times too. I refer to it as sleepy town because not much is happening here for young people!


In my internship I lernt how to make Elizabethan Ruffs, something I had been so eager to learn for a long time! I also learnt how to construct costumes mostly from the 16th & 17th Century Venetian Fashions. When work was over I asked my Maestro if he could teach me how to construct an 18th Century Corset as I have been looking at the construction in books for many years and found it extremely complex so I wanted to take the time to understand the construction of the undergarment.

I was at Palazzo Mocenigo a few months ago. The palace was home to the Mocenigo family since the 17th Century. Within this palace is a small Costume collection which mainly show Venetian fashions and in one of the display cabinets on the floor was a tiny, heavily bones mid 18th century Corset, the construction of this delicate little masterpiece was amazing. So much detail and the precise stitching all done by hand as sewing machines had not yet been invented! I have also just found out that this Palace has a library of the Fabrics and Costume History Centre, which I will take a good look at!

So while I was working at the Atelier I was staying behind later to work on my very own 18th Century Corset. There are so many bones in this construction and I enjoyed every moment of making it except the hand stitching the bias binding on to each individual tab at the bottom of the Corset. The tabs are the tongue shaped pieces at the bottom of the Corsets used in 17th & 18th Century corsetry. The pattern on the fabric and colour I used was not historically correct but I just wanted to make something to test how it worked and with the final product it was more for a fashion photo shoot than to be historically accurate.

I ended up doing a photo shoot at an abandoned hospital just outside Berlin called “Belitz” I went along with a small team which included the model Stephanie Peregrinus and Photographers Ray Demski and Leena McCall. I was really pleased with the results! 

A little treasure I found in Venice the other day was a beautiful metal mask. It stood out to me because it was different from all the other Venetian masks you see…and there are so many shops here selling the same product that its quite tiring to see the same thing over and over again, but as I passed a window in a small ally way which I had never ventured down before I saw this beautiful little dainty mask calling out to me. Nothing extravagant and bursting with colours, just simple black delicate pattern and perfectly fitting to my taste!

Baby steps…


I have been recommended by a few people that I should start a Blog! So here it goes!


My name is Gemma Moss and I am fascinated with the history of Costume. My love of costume began from seeing films such as Amadeus and Titanic.

The main garment that I was always fixated on was the corset. I was totally inspired by this undergarment that could curve and alter the female form to fit to the fashion ideal of the day. Since I was 13 years old I always wanted to understand the garment and its construction. I bought my first corset when I was 16 still not knowing how one was put together. I went to university at 18 to study fashion design, which I feel was a mistake and I should of studied Costume Design. There was no possibility at the time for me to learn how to make real genuine Corsets at the time with the fashion course.

In the second year we had to do work experience. I decided to work for a corset company. I would ask questions and they were really afraid to let go of their trade secrets. I did learnt how the fabrics and materials are put together but not how to make a corset tailor made to the body. It wasn’t until I did my work experience at Tamworth Castle that I met historical costume designer Gini Newton from Chimera Costumes who really took the time to show me the construction from the very start. When I would see her at the castle we would discuss the things that I were so eager to learn and gave me titles of fabulous books I should check out! I also went and visited another corset designer who gave me more tips and I put all the advice and knowledge together to make my very first (poorly made) corset!!

After making the first corset I continued to try new things and keep working on them to perfect the new skill I had learned.